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Buell XB12ss, intake seals, Buell 1125R TH2

4-4-2019 - What did we do today: 17-10-2018 Buell XB12ss, intake seals, belt and neutral switch, Buell 1125R crush drive and Torque Hammer 2 mounting

super clean XB12SS 07 model , bike douse not run ok.. error light and detonation ? 

virgin like odo reading.. notice the neutral light is out 

error codes.. AMC .. the exhaust valve was already opened a long time ago by the customer.. i will remove the working from the ecm , so the error code douse not come up any more 

runing rough, detonation.. first check the intake seals , right side scoop of 

now first to fix the neutral switch so i can start with only the starter button , chin spoiler and pulley cover bolts of 

pinch bolt loose 

weight of the rear wheel 

and axle out to get the belt loose 

mnn will clean this this will other wise corrode to the bearings , and removing will be come a pain 

mnn so little km.. till the belt is worn out 

lots off crack —

and even stone chips pressed in the belt 

will call the customer if we have a whole pictute for repair

belt off and 5/8 ( 16 mm high thin wall socket under a little angle ) you can remove and mount the neutral switch 

neutra switch out.. completly no contact 

neutra switch out.. completly no contact 

cleaned the axle

little coating of neer seas and axle back in

for testing let the bike warm up.. with 123 % cold start , you can not always get a clear result 

bike in closed loop , aka warm 

little brake cleaner spayed in the flanges 

afv drops.. really low as the brake cleaner is making the mixture rich ... intake seals rear cylinder are leaking hard 

so making ready for engine rotation clutch cable loose and out the lever 

left side foot peg bracket off ( will hit the primairy cover other wise ) 

we also have ok for the belt so rear fender of 

and also right side foot peg 

and also right side foot peg 

loosen the belt tension and remove the swingarm piece 

hard to tell why with so little km . this is worn out , old model belt ? 

new belt on and swing arm brace tight 

rotate the wheel to put the belt on an tighten the axle

rear fender back on

moving to the front .. support the weight 

and loosen the front bolt 

stripping the top side throttle cables out 

airbox needs to come off 

loosen the top tierod bolt 

fuel line and conectors loose 

engine rotated down 

rear seal has been leaking 

note the "bite"marks in the seal 

i will clean up the dings in the manifold runners

cleaning the heads 

loose fit before you tighten the bolts 

line up in the middle, and evenly tighten

engine up and tighten the front bolt 

w-brace mounted

left scoop on 

covers back on 

throttle cables on the cams 

and mount in the grip 

route the cables proper and ziptie the tps wire to the fuel rail so the wires will not vibrate to much 

put the stack on.. press down fully, 

and airbox back on

resetting the tps , and letting here warm up.. running sweet :-) 

1125r low trottle // low rpm nervouse —

will check the crush drive first 

ooking for a way to make this better visible .. rear wheel in the air, engine in gear , and sharpy marking

you see the sharpy moves.. and douse not come back , so this is freeplay in the cruch drive , not the rubbers beying pressed in 

so will fix the freeplay , belt needs to come of , pinch loose

and axle loosend

co-worker holding the brake.. needed to give it a little more to loosen the bolt 

left overs loctite .. i will clean it out 

with a drift , from the inside tap the cap out 

the crush drive 

shims ready to be stacked in 

front pully back on.. O-ring drop off oil and loctite on the bolt 

back on.. better now :-) line moves a little but comes back to the line , as a sign from the rubber crush drive is pushed in and out

next.. hammer time , removing the stock piece of old rusty iron and put a TH2 on

note sure what was hit... ? 

stock exhaust removed 

the 2008 models had a nice bracket on the oil cooler. mounting this one back on 

TQ hammer 2 front pipe 

on the header and front hanger on 

the mufler unpacking 

prepairing the rubber strip 

lyning up the bracker 

and mounting it to the right rear exhaust mount point

tapping the tension out the pipes and tighten the clamps 

db killer out.. allen key 3 mm 

and pull it out with a pair of plyers 

easier to mount ? you can put in a old batter bolt , with key 10 mm 

updating the fuel mapping 

she is ready to make some noise...and power