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S1 88CI rebuild 1125 bits, 1125 burned stator

3-11-2016 - What did we do today 16-10-2016 Buell S1 88 CI Engine rebuild, Buell 1125 bits, Buell XB engine rebuild, Buell 1125 burned stator and brake jitter fix.

winter time, custom project time... this S1 going to be rebuild. passenger pegs where removed, and a frech powder coating on the wheels and frame

as the bike has R1 wheels and front end, a chain coversion was added... but we are going back to belt drive, a blank pully was cut to fit the rear wheel

rear brake is going to be made over... really looks like crappy

space enough to make a " hidden" brake caliper mount , will be come sweet

R1 front end and dual disk brakes to hold this puppy a little in check , custom trple tree

the bike has some nice stuff on it :-)

as the bigend bearing was broken in the engine, we need to rince out the oil tank very good

this still came out after 10 minutes rincing... you really don't want this in your new build engine... so this also for the oil cooler and adaptor when this is mounted , and trow away the old oil lines

mounting grips 1125 , remove the barend weights

and remove the 2 screws holding on the cables and throttle grip

new set off riizoma's grips will be mounted

they come with several inserts , use the biggest, the diameters don't differ to much , but the larger one reduces the turn a little

bar end back on leaf a little clearance to the grip so it will turn freely

other side , the stock grips are glued on , with a flat screwdriver you can try to break the glue to get it off in one piece

will not work always some are glued on hard, this one did come off

the new grip has grub screws to lock it in place , use a light setting loctite on these

and bar end weight on

for now i close up the Uly cam cover and wait on the cylinder to return from the machine shop , cams back in an alined

cover on and tq the bolts down

timing cup back in, and sensor back to, using the markings we made when we took it off

some rags in the case hole , if the piston pin c-clip flies off

with a little heat on the cylinder the pin would also come out, but you can use a pin puller aswell, don't try to hammer these out, as you can damage the big end bearings

pesky breather line fittings.... :-X they cross thread so easy

getting the line loose will help

1/2-20 thread chaser to clean up the threads

and back in properly

and mount the oil line back on

1125 burned stator fix

airbox removed

and top oil cooler line loos and turned down so you can remove the cover

ignition sensor off

with the cover off took the stator out... nice and crispy, was shorted to ground

clean off the old gasket

a bed off silicone for the new stator wires

best to mount the stator half way in and first put the wire guid in with a few turns

than push the stator on the flats and locate the screw holes... as i have seen destruction on a few bikes when these screws came out... would advise to loctite these in

cleaning the threads on the sprag clutch ring to remove the old loctite

you can remove the sprag by pushing it out , you can also check the race way like this

and inner race way

also clean off any hard loctite on the flat mating surface , it is not much, but when the hardened loctite is loosening , the bolts can loose a little pretension and come off , not something you would want in here

a little prelube for the first seconds with out oil pressure

sprag bolts clean these also

easy is to mount the sprag clutch first on the crank

put the washer on the balancing gear

and muont the rotor, we have modified this one with the oiljet , to the stator will not get as hot as it used to

the oil pressure feed is already in the crank

rotor on, and turn the sprag to the holes line up

loctite on these screws and tighten theme evenly

and tw theme down to 35 NM

272 red loctite on the crank threads

and thighten the new nut to 400 NM 
new gasket on

a little lube in the starter gear bearing and needle bearing

a silicone bead to help seal the stator wire rubber to seal

and the cover can be put on note the screw with the copper washer , put this back on the spot where you took it out

oil line back in

and pull the stator wires to side

reconnect the terminals to the connector

and lock the connector with the orange lock

testing...mnnn i dont like this

should have a little room to the swingarm

checking ... works as the battery is full 13.8 is good

letting here warm up so the fans start to blow and draw some more current

mnn common... seat not properly mounted, will bend the seat brace

as this is aluminium... easy to bend back

bought fans blowing still enough charging

time to put the airbox back on , the idle air hose... put a little ziptie on it and strap it to the pipe , they come way to easy when you mount the base plate

baseplate on, check the throttle ,to see if any is binding

and the rest off the airbox on, MAP sensor hole pointing down please

and the seat back on, silde it on from the rear so you know the hook is catching

2e heat cycle on the X1

running bad... startups can be a bitch on spark plugs

with some fresh plugs running smoothly

ok enought for now, cool down completely again

1125 mishap, replacing the clutch lever, the mirror mount needs to be loosend to get the pivot pin out

bent , not broken

new lever comes with a new pivot, becarefull for the brass insert...

as you need this from the old lever to the new lever

same mishap... broke also the left rear peg

clip off and pin out

rear pegs have a detentplate , bal and spring to lock it in 2 positions

to mount the new peg, put the spring and ball in, and clamp the detend plate on and slide it in the rest

pivot acn c-clip in

this 1125 also has a brake jutter

ways to trace a worped disk.. draw sharpy lines on it and spin the wheel lightly aplying the brake you can see the high spots the lines will go

and on other places the lines will stay, clear case off warped disk here

so pinch bolts loose

and front axle out

as we need to replace the brake pads aswell , loosen the pins while the caliper is still attached

pads are nearly gone to

and i don't like the front wheel bearings, they feel funky .. i will replace these before they become a problem

new disk on for very good braking

after inspection off the hardware, some new loctite aplied to the bolts and tighten the bolt down to 35 Nm

new bearings in , feeling good... wheel can go back in