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XB9SX 2009, speed sensor XB12SX clutch 1125CR

7-3-2019 - 8-9-2018 Buell XB9SX 2009, speed sensor trouble, Buell XB12SX clutch issue, Buell XB neutral switch, Buell 1125CR start repair charging system

early morning arrival still very nice and well kept bike , but the speedo and fan stop working when warm ( Fan works on speed signal in the lastest Buell ecm firmware ) 

AMC error ? funny.. Xb9 has no exhaust valve.. seen this more speed sensor trouble 

speed sensor same place as all but on the 2008 -up more difficult to get to

best to loosen the oil ine holder 

and pull the breather out the fitting

mnnn stone chip just caught my eye .. these thing will scar the idler pully or break the belt 

the connector is very hard to loosen with the sensor in place as the lock tab is at the rear 

out and connector loose

55000 km will show some metal dust on the sensor ( infact a magnet ) 

could be terminal issue ? need to try 

give it a clean

and clean the connector , and some di-electric grease 

sensor back in and oil line back on 

brace mounted again 

hope this fixes it , other wise the sensor needs replacement 

XB12 2010 daily rider.. clutch issues , clutch douse not come free.. and feels funny 

checked the adjustments

little play on the lever

ziptie on the boot , as the gearbox was some watter noticeble 

checking clutch adjustment ( rear wheel in the air, pulling the clutch ) and turning the wheel , funny noise not good primairy is also way to tight 1 point 

rear disk is also bent 

al in all for me enough reason to take the primairy of and have a look , oil still looks like choco milk 

primairy tensioner loose 

and cover of 

normaly after removing the main shaft nut.. you should be able to pull out the clutch hub .. not so in this case 

so take the clutch plates out ,clutch tool mounted

plates out, and i could pull the hub out... the basket bearing is completely destroyed 

no problem.. new bearing in.. and long lasting thick sticky oil to help in lubrication 

hub back on

plates in 1 by 1 

important to check behind the clutch spring .. as it collects debris here.. and this will prevent the clutch to come free if the build up is to much 

pressure plate on.. spring seat ring on and with your finger you can push the retention ring in 

red loctite on the mainshaft —

conical ring positioned correct and fasten clock wise !!

pulling plate on.. retaining ring douse not seat right .. these get bent out off shape and can cause it to pull out 

new ring seats perfect , and snappy 

cover back on.. ans tq down the bolts

loctite on the shifter bolt !! 

oil in and mechnisme in 

chin spoiler on and testing.. runs much smoother en more silient now 

neutral switch not working.. pulling the cluch lever wil make the engine start , so you don't have to push start it 

losen the axle pich bolt 

and loosen the axle 15 turns to have the belt tension of

take the belt of the pulley 

testing old switch , open circuit 

belt of the front pully, thin 5/8 socket little under angle and you can get it out

check the crush washer comes with it 

new sensor in.. nice 0.7 Ohm 

belt turnes on 

and tighened the axle .. ready to go —

1125 no charge.. also needs service so running warm and drain the oil . left plug out 

and right plug out

plugs back in and new oil filter in 

for the cover to come of , cooler line needs to come loose , removeing the clip and pull out the oil line — 

take the connector apart top side

and cover of .. stator is nice and chrispy... looks like a rewind job ? please before you do this .. confirm with the rewinder the wire they use is up to specs..and can handle 200 deg. C.

i bet the rotor has not been upgraded , bolts out the sprag adaptor

center nut of and rotor pulled of , no oil jet in the double spline

sprag adaptor.. cleaning the threads of old loctite

same for the bolts

and clean of the hardened spill of locite, this will give a tension on the flat surface, and a way if this layer comes of to loose some tension on the bolts 

sprag bearing back in the holder ( outer race ) 

stator with oiljet mounting 

i use 272 for these to ( also for the big nut ) 

tighen to 35nm and the big one 400 Nm 

old stator removal 

double crispy 

i hate when they do this ... silicone pushed of the mating surface .. and forms a edge on the inside waiting to come loose and plug oil channels

new stator , wires bedded.. easy to first mount the wire guide

and that mount the stator .. use 272 red loctite for these to.. seen these come loose to many times .. and let this set for the weekend..