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28-7-2016 Lowering a 06 Ulysses

25-8-2016 - 28-7-2016 Lowering a Buell XB12X 2006 Ulysses

old time customer, wanted to have more control on this Uly, well lowering the bike with about a 1 inch you have more feet on the ground , using a specialy made spring set from Hyperpro for this, and you will still have a very nice handeling bike

i do the reasr first, losen the upper mounting bolt

cut the gearbox breather hose loose ( hold on with a ziptie )

remove the pressure canister holding bracket next to the shock ( need to slide the ecm away )

loosening the lower mounting bolt

and losen the remote preload adjuster

lift the weight off the bike , with a hoist or a jack so you can freely move the bolt as a sign there is no tension on the rearshock

the front ecm mount can be a real pain to loosen as the nut is hold in plastic , if you remove the rear bolt you can slide it out the way

and you can pull out the shock

spring compressor is very usefull here

compress the spring, so you can remove the 2 holding halves

new and old spring , the lowering effect is in the working off the spring, with a progressive working , so the suspention travel first piece is a littel softer and the deeper it compressed the more resistance it has

new spring on the rear shock absober

put back on, bolts in and lower the bike, and tighen the mounting bolts

nice rear is 25mm lower

screw the remote preload adjuster back on, and ziptie the hydraulic line to the wire harness so it will not rubb against the spring

gearbox breather hose back on

moving on to the front, as you really don't want a "chopper" trail... best to lower the rear and front to getter

pinch bolt loose and front axle out

left leg out

and right one

now on most front forks there is always the last end on the slider that is dirty and the normal travel douse not go so deep.. when you take the legs apart the will slide in fully , clean the lower ends0 , better for the seals

and put some electrical isolation tape on the fragile aluminiun cap nuts

before you break the damper connection on the cap , check the rebound settings

top cap off, preload tube spacer and carry ring out, and the rubber hydrolock ring out

new springs compaired to the old ones ( bottom ) also progressive

old skool ?you can count half the weight off the front fork as unsprung weight, and you want as little as possible unsprong weight , so heavy part off the spring ( the progressive wound part ) on top

new oil in the legs ( come with the kit ) bleed the rebound damper untill the stroke up and down feels controlled from top to bottom

index the rebound markings, this will become fully closed

now screw on the top cap with needle to the rebound damper... it bottoms out when the needle is toughing the seat , ( fully closed ) not screw the jam nut up and tighten

legs back in

and wheel back in, off course we checked the wheel bearings

set front axle to 55 NM counterclock wise , and brake caliper bolts 50 NM ( normal threads )

front fender back on

set the suspention settings , preload the front a few times to set the forks on the axle , before you tighten the pinch bolts