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28-7-2016 Lowering a 06 Ulysses
25-8-2016 - 28-7-2016 Lowering a Buell XB12X 2006 Ulysses
old time customer, wanted to have more control on this Uly, well lowering the bike with about a 1 inch you have more feet on the ground , using a specialy made spring set from Hyperpro for this, and you will still have a very nice handeling bikehttps://www.twinmotorcycles.nl/webshop/artikel.asp?guid&aid=2333&cid=0&s=lowering&a&aname=Buell_XB12X_25mm_lowering_kit_front+rear
i do the reasr first, losen the upper mounting bolt
cut the gearbox breather hose loose ( hold on with a ziptie )
remove the pressure canister holding bracket next to the shock ( need to slide the ecm away )
loosening the lower mounting bolt
and losen the remote preload adjuster
lift the weight off the bike , with a hoist or a jack so you can freely move the bolt as a sign there is no tension on the rearshock
the front ecm mount can be a real pain to loosen as the nut is hold in plastic , if you remove the rear bolt you can slide it out the way
and you can pull out the shock
spring compressor is very usefull here
compress the spring, so you can remove the 2 holding halves
new and old spring , the lowering effect is in the working off the spring, with a progressive working , so the suspention travel first piece is a littel softer and the deeper it compressed the more resistance it has
new spring on the rear shock absober
put back on, bolts in and lower the bike, and tighen the mounting bolts
nice rear is 25mm lower
screw the remote preload adjuster back on, and ziptie the hydraulic line to the wire harness so it will not rubb against the spring
gearbox breather hose back on
moving on to the front, as you really don't want a "chopper" trail... best to lower the rear and front to getter
pinch bolt loose and front axle out
left leg out
and right one
now on most front forks there is always the last end on the slider that is dirty and the normal travel douse not go so deep.. when you take the legs apart the will slide in fully , clean the lower ends0 , better for the seals
and put some electrical isolation tape on the fragile aluminiun cap nuts
before you break the damper connection on the cap , check the rebound settings
top cap off, preload tube spacer and carry ring out, and the rubber hydrolock ring out
new springs compaired to the old ones ( bottom ) also progressive
old skool ?you can count half the weight off the front fork as unsprung weight, and you want as little as possible unsprong weight , so heavy part off the spring ( the progressive wound part ) on top
new oil in the legs ( come with the kit ) bleed the rebound damper untill the stroke up and down feels controlled from top to bottom
index the rebound markings, this will become fully closed
now screw on the top cap with needle to the rebound damper... it bottoms out when the needle is toughing the seat , ( fully closed ) not screw the jam nut up and tighten
legs back in
and wheel back in, off course we checked the wheel bearings
set front axle to 55 NM counterclock wise , and brake caliper bolts 50 NM ( normal threads )
front fender back on
set the suspention settings , preload the front a few times to set the forks on the axle , before you tighten the pinch bolts
