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XB12X cylinder Buell M2 Engine mount, XB12X Pully
6-2-2019 - What did we do today: 22-6-2018: Buell XB12X rear cylinder of, Buell M2 broken engine mount, Buell XB12X pully replacement
rear head of the Uly.. looks very nice with 70K
push rod cover of and protect the lifters from debris
rear bore looks even better than the front one
but here to the 2e compression ring is starting to wear out
so temp strap in the left overs.. and part it untill the cylinder are back
stuning consition M2 brought in from Germany for some repairs
front engine mount broke
i first take off the airfilter unit as this is holing up the engine now
the lower end rear bolt out
the top right one is in the housing it self not in the pipe .. remove the breather bolt
engine lifted a little .. and box removed
1 bolt still in
the other one is broken od
looing at the markings. been loose for some time , these bolts need preload.. other wise they are not strong enough
the break is corroded.
also the marking on the head from rattleing
new front mount on. as marking guide
my 10 o clock apointment. new pullies as the old ones are getting sharp, and belts are wearing to fast
and some grime from allot of km .. pully seal ? or base gasket ?
ok nut rattled loose
belt tension of
and rear wheel out.. bearings are good
front pully of.. douse not like the pully seal.. ( it douse not run up and around the corner )
idler pully surfance is wearing out
time for a new one.
ilder on
new front pulley.. we have these with very nice pricing
we are replacing the belt to .. to big a crack for comfort
pully bolts out
and new pully on
loctite these bolts
and set theme to TQ specs
with the wheel back in.. belt can be taken of
new belt on.. and swing arm brace in
footpeg bracket back on
and setting the rear wheel to Tq
front pully tight.. and lockplate in position ... she is ready to go.
made a little mark the center tool.. from the broken of piece
with the mount in correctly push the center tool in and dril a center
now to make some room not to damage
better.. still clutch cable out the way
will clean up these treads
sharp cobalt drill bits.. and a 200LBS pushing weight makes nice spiral swarfs ;-)
hole trough the left overs
old heavy duty tx bit hammer in the hole drilled
and with some luck you can turn out the piece
the left over piece
as the front engine rubber is also broken.. we first replace this one , as we have more room with the mount of
but we need to take the fuel tank of
fuel hose loose .. don't like the crack .. will replace it
front rubber
removed
the new kit.. normaly it came with mounting instuctions.. as the construction has changed , was not in this kit
luckaly i dont trough these away,, kept a old one ;-)
so flat side up
and the stubber ring on top of the mount
bolts on
engine mount bolts.. using new ones after a break is better.. some lube on the shaft.. and red loctite on the treads
tighen the bolts.. i do 85 -90 NM
and tighten the front mount bolt
rear wheel out.. for fresh tire
bearings are ok
need to check the runni, ng. as i see the carb has moved.. because the air filter box reasted on the frame i fear the intake seals are leaking
but first the front tire . axle bolt out
pinch bolts loose ( metric )
and loosen the disk bolt , so you can remove the caliper with ease