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25-8-2016 1125R trouble shooting, engine assembly

13-9-2016 - 25-8-2016 1125R trouble shooting, engine assembly

we already had a look to at the front coil connector , this was on solid, next step , new plugs , loosening the 2 side pods from there brackets to lower the engine

exhaust needs to come off , rear bolt right side out

front clamps loose

turn the idler pully so you have acces to the left exhaust bolt, and remove the front mounting bolts

and the exhaust will come off

support the engine with jack

loosen the horn ( for the 08 models this mounted on a separate bracket , and cut the zipties to free the horn wires )

middle mount bolts loose

and loosen the pich bolt to slide the bushing a little out

and left mount bolt out

dropping the engine untill you can reach the coil

coil off , looks good

sparkplug how ever, looks bad...

fresh plug and gap set

little ceramic grease on these and back in

coil back in and checking the connector plugs in and locks

engine up again, you need to wiggle the frame a little, line up the front bracket bolt holes and start the bolts in

center engine bolts in, start with the left side to tighen these

and than the right side ( with the silding bushing

and set theme all to tq

intake airscoop back on , take care you don't knock off the front coil connector

and horn bracket back on and ziptie the cable harness to the left bracket

gasket on the pipe or in the exhaust, i do theme in the exhaust so they don't slide up the pipes when you mount theme

exhaust bolts , left front, use a ring spanner and stick it in between the exhaust and the oil cooler bracket , you can just get the nut on like this

tightening the right front one, no direct angle , and ball end allen keys will slip to much, use a mini ratched works for me

and the rear exhaust mounting bolts back in

side pods to the frame and bracket

use a little ceramic grease for the screws, the brass inserts can be a pain when they seaz to the screws

as there are allot off the same screws involved... pick the nicest one for the outside :-)

rear plug... easy peasy

looks also bad... bike hase not been running good for some time

rear plug in, testing... :-) running perfect again, on idle

so the rest off the body work back on

idle control air hose, the can come loose over time, and with mounting, put a little ziptie on it , so it stays on the pipe

airbox base plate on.., check the throttle to ensure it is not sticking

and map sensor back in the holder , correctly ( hole pointing down )

this is a freaking clean 1125r , has only 7000 km on the dail , will be a happy new owner

working on the bike i noticed the rear master was binding, known problem , left like this it will ruwn the disk / pads in no time... asked permission to also fix this... as the shop where they did the service... did not notice this :-( so bleeding the system

and loosen the brake light switch / banjo

i take the brake pedal off, as it is only 1 bolt , and i have better acces tot the cotterpin

cotter pin out

little protection for the brake fluid, it is drained , but it will still leak a little , and take off the clamp that holds the feed line

booth off the cylinder and with a pair off c-clip spanners remove the c-clip

the culprit, the piston end corrodes a little due to moisture, and the piston sticks in the hole

through the screw hole the other side you can push it out 

after a little cleaning and grease so it will not corrode again mount the pushrod back

back on the bike with new crush washers

and bleeding the system

perfect... pressure and comes back the whole way

engine rebuild , cleaning the cases for new sealant

cases to getter

i use also 2 gear box bolts while tightening the case bolts

set to TQ

yep bigbore... this is the max thickness for the center bolt between the cylinders

cams back on , no stock ones, but ususaly all manuctors mark theme

my way,1e 3e and 4 in , crank marking little pointing back wards

lift the rear lifter and position the left over cam , following the markings

oil pump back in , little locktite on the screws

plugging the pump for now, and front oil line on

cam cover on, also a little loctite on the screws

nice cam cover cut. leaving the positioning stud on

and tq the cover down

pushrod cover base plates , cleaned and new o-rings

and dropping in the gearbox

i do red loctite on these bolts

shifter mechanisme... i like to positioning the spring like this do the hook end will not catch the plate

same for the detend follower spring

adjusting the shifter mechanime , 3e gear and 3 mm and tighen the shifter mechanisme mounting bolts

gear box back to neutral