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5-10-2016 1125 running bad, new wheel tyres XB12Xt
14-10-2016 - What did we do today: 5-10-2016 Buell 1125 running bad, Buell XB12XT new wheel tyres, Buell XB engine rebuild
nice build 1125R but running like crap, no power and way to hot
mnnnn metal debris on the rear rim? me thinks the catalistic converter is toast and blocking the flow —
waiting for a traffic light the exhaust did become so hot, the rear tire was starting to burn
more burning marks
so first the exhaust off to check , clamps loose
right rear mount bolt
right front
left front, the one with a loose nut
left rear, the idler pully can block the hole
you should be able to give the pully a little twist to open up for the bolt hole
it works better when you loosen the right footpegs bolts so the exhaust hase a little more clearance
rattle ratlle.... looksy in side and you see the catalistic convertor is melted —
we did have a nice used one so we could help this one out quickly , full stainless clamps , will work allot better with some ceramic grease on these
and the left front mounting bolt. easy to put a flange nut in so you can hold it in place with the spanner
little look under the seat... the map sensor is upside down , collecting rain at the moment, will trun it around
map sensor should be like this..
so starting ... mnn still douse not run great... rear header temp —
front header temp... looks like the rear plug is not sparking , wich could be the cause off the problem... unburned fuel in the exhaust and not notiching it is running on 1 cylinder ( engine will still run 1500 rpm idle, a little more vibration )
as it is the rear easy acces
plug is dry ? i will put a new one in anyway
yep... running on bought barrels ... and nicely O2 sensors responding as they sould ( means there hot )
Uly... fix the rear wheel no good,
belt guards off and axle out —
we did a temperary fix as the pully side wheel bearing had been spinning in the wheel. metal glue and obsetting the aluminium to make the hole just a hair smaller... did work.. bearing is still in firm :-) but still fix it right , and replacing this with a 3 bearing wheel
old wheel , pully off... impact wrench works best
pully off
and the disk off
on the new wheel
and tq down to specifications ( i had already prepped the wheel , pressing in the bearings and dust seals )
for a 2010 wheel in a older model you need the retrofit kit, with bearings , dust seals , new axle and spacer ring
the spacer rings needs to go in the disk side dust seal
ok rear done, front tyre needed replacement aswell
axle loose , and wheel out
fresh rubber... wheel bearings where stil ok
brake caliper to TQ specs
and preloading the front suspention before you tighten the axle pinch bolt
engine XB rebuild... crank overhaul, it was recently done some where else, but was already starting to make a wyning noise.. we will do it right the first time, crank big end was on it's way out, and the pignon race outer race was lapped oval.
back from the machine shop , best way to ship cranks in there case
so first apart to clean
nice new big end pin... strait and welded for long lasting fun... i would say better than new
cleaning off gasket ? should not be in there so much
ok.. first the gear box in
best to press these in up side down. we made a fixture for this, as the 03-05 gearboxes have loose spacer rings on top , they will always snag trying to press it down the other way around
detend tool in the neutral switch hole on the other side case
shift forks in there slots and slide the shifter drum in
crank in and case following it
before you do anything else .. check if the gearbox will shift turning the shafts and the shifter drum
cases tq down to specs... old oil pump gear even while there is wear visible they put back in the old steel one
i will put the birylium one in :-)
cams are number startingfrom the front
line up number 3 and 4 , put number 1 in position the pignon gear mark in about the right postion and put the number 2 cam in
last change to put some lube in the big end bearing, give it a few squirts off oil so you can see it come out the big end bearings... better during start up
cam cover back on
new lifters.... do also a few squirts oil trough the hole untill it comes out bubble free on top
new cam seal
and timing cup back on
sealing the main gear , put the squire ring in before you put on the spacer
crank seal and clip in
and the spacer back on... no closing the top side so we can put the engine in the frame