Articles & photos


5-10-2016 1125 running bad, new wheel tyres XB12Xt

14-10-2016 - What did we do today: 5-10-2016 Buell 1125 running bad, Buell XB12XT new wheel tyres, Buell XB engine rebuild

nice build 1125R but running like crap, no power and way to hot

mnnnn metal debris on the rear rim? me thinks the catalistic converter is toast and blocking the flow — 

waiting for a traffic light the exhaust did become so hot, the rear tire was starting to burn 

more burning marks 

so first the exhaust off to check , clamps loose

right rear mount bolt 

right front 

left front, the one with a loose nut 

left rear, the idler pully can block the hole 

you should be able to give the pully a little twist to open up for the bolt hole

it works better when you loosen the right footpegs bolts so the exhaust hase a little more clearance 

rattle ratlle.... looksy in side and you see the catalistic convertor is melted —

we did have a nice used one so we could help this one out quickly , full stainless clamps , will work allot better with some ceramic grease on these 

and the left front mounting bolt. easy to put a flange nut in so you can hold it in place with the spanner

little look under the seat... the map sensor is upside down , collecting rain at the moment, will trun it around 

map sensor should be like this..

so starting ... mnn still douse not run great... rear header temp —

front header temp... looks like the rear plug is not sparking , wich could be the cause off the problem... unburned fuel in the exhaust and not notiching it is running on 1 cylinder ( engine will still run 1500 rpm idle, a little more vibration ) 

as it is the rear easy acces 

plug is dry ? i will put a new one in anyway 

yep... running on bought barrels ... and nicely O2 sensors responding as they sould ( means there hot ) 

Uly... fix the rear wheel no good, 

belt guards off and axle out —

we did a temperary fix as the pully side wheel bearing had been spinning in the wheel. metal glue and obsetting the aluminium to make the hole just a hair smaller... did work.. bearing is still in firm :-) but still fix it right , and replacing this with a 3 bearing wheel

old wheel , pully off... impact wrench works best 

pully off 

and the disk off

on the new wheel 

and tq down to specifications ( i had already prepped the wheel , pressing in the bearings and dust seals ) 

for a 2010 wheel in a older model you need the retrofit kit, with bearings , dust seals , new axle and spacer ring

the spacer rings needs to go in the disk side dust seal 

ok rear done, front tyre needed replacement aswell

axle loose , and wheel out 

fresh rubber... wheel bearings where stil ok 

brake caliper to TQ specs 

and preloading the front suspention before you tighten the axle pinch bolt 

engine XB rebuild... crank overhaul, it was recently done some where else, but was already starting to make a wyning noise.. we will do it right the first time, crank big end was on it's way out, and the pignon race outer race was lapped oval.

back from the machine shop , best way to ship cranks in there case 

so first apart to clean 

nice new big end pin... strait and welded for long lasting fun... i would say better than new 

cleaning off gasket ? should not be in there so much

ok.. first the gear box in 

best to press these in up side down. we made a fixture for this, as the 03-05 gearboxes have loose spacer rings on top , they will always snag trying to press it down the other way around

detend tool in the neutral switch hole on the other side case 

shift forks in there slots and slide the shifter drum in

crank in and case following it

before you do anything else .. check if the gearbox will shift turning the shafts and the shifter drum 

cases tq down to specs... old oil pump gear even while there is wear visible they put back in the old steel one 

i will put the birylium one in :-)

cams are number startingfrom the front

line up number 3 and 4 , put number 1 in position the pignon gear mark in about the right postion and put the number 2 cam in

last change to put some lube in the big end bearing, give it a few squirts off oil so you can see it come out the big end bearings... better during start up 

cam cover back on 

new lifters.... do also a few squirts oil trough the hole untill it comes out bubble free on top 

new cam seal 

and timing cup back on 

sealing the main gear , put the squire ring in before you put on the spacer 

crank seal and clip in 

and the spacer back on... no closing the top side so we can put the engine in the frame