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1-2-2017 Sportster stuff XB shift problem
10-2-2017 - 1-2-2017 Sportster grips, levers and throttle cables, Buell XB shift problem, Uly coating parts
on the nightster the throttle cables are nackered, making everything else nice... i will replace these to
T27 for the handle bar cap
and T25 for the switch screws
the cable adjusters turn these in to make some room to get the cables out
you need some free play to remove the barrels that hold the cables
with the small airfilter , i could just get to the cam to loosen the other end off the cables
new cables in the switch housing, and new grips on , fiddling back the cables on the grip
changing the lever is as easy as removing the c-clip in the pin
looks better like this
no shifty Xb... notiched right away the lever is sticking... if it douse not return fully , it will not shift properly
the pivot bushing douse not move and looks like it is really tight
knocked the pivot out,
little cleaning and reaming the bushing a little
more clearance to the case, so when i thighten the bolt the lever will not get stuck
drop off red loctite and the bolt , and the shift lever feels springy again ... will test drive the bike first, as shifting feels normal now :-)
horn douse not work... checking fuse.. is good ok
so horn broken ? trying the horn button, i don't have any juice on the wire ... switch problem or broken wire
switch is easy check... power at one end... but switch is bad
you can take the contacts out the switch.. carefull not to loose the spring
the contact has been sparking already
a little sanding on the contacts and back in
testing... button works / and horn makes noise
no these will not go back
some new screws in .. works better
the Uly we striped recently for coating off the wheels, tail and front end
big box off nicely coated parts :-) almost like xmas
will start with the grips on the tail piece, the push button goose in first
than the push rod
than the nylon bearings and spring in the left side
passenger grips and tray on the tail section
tail light back on.. useing the rubber grommets
and the rear fender on.. i will leave the cover off to hook up the indicators and licence plate light
seat rails... need to clean the ground points to bare metal
like so , the seat rails are used to make ground from battery to the engine, so this needs to be clean and good
one rail on, and under tray half in
other rail on and tail piece on
battery tray in
rear brake fluid reservoir on
electrics hooked on to the bank angle sensor and power point , and mount the seat lock bracket
battert and ecm in
moving to the rear wheel , the temp wheel out
valve back in the fresh coated wheel
the blasted surface , as this is a all weather bike, this will corrode very fast and will need to hammer off the rear pully and disk .. i put some never seas on and whipe the most off, but there will be enough left to protect the aluminium
new pully... as the old one was worn
bearings on and balancing the new combination
wheel back in.. because i do not want to damage the wheels i removed the inner pully cover
axle back to tension, and pinch bolt tight
front end .... brake line bracket mounted to the right piece
silded the left piece in, and loosly put all the screws in for the ignition switch , as we need to aline the top piece first before we tighten everything
cleaning the treads... these are so easy damaged... :-( 10-32 size
and top piece on
indicators back on... the breather hole needs to point down , so this is right front
to mount the speedo a little tighter , you can put a washer on the speedo studs before you put the rubbers on
headlight bracket back on, and final tightening off all the bolts
testing the electrics .. head light and horn did not work... mnnn i think ground problem front on the steering head
yep... wire is broken next to the connector , common problem
new connection made
and she is working
flyscreen and whid screen on
checked the electrics... to rear fender cover plate can also be mounted
front wheel... the temp spare wheel out
and starting to assemble the front wheel
give the disk spring a light coat off never seas , so they will not corrode stuck
disk back on... bolt to 35 NM and a drop off blue loctide
new bearings on, and wheel ready to go back in
axle tightened and forks set ( pushing the bike in the springs a few times, pinch bolts tight.. notice the fork outer is sticking out off the axle
so when you put front protectors on, do not tighten these hard... you will push the front fork in and will become sticky
uly sign sticked back on the rails
and cleaned some corrosion off the right foot peg plate and gave it a tough up spray painte
she is nice again... i will wash here to morrow and take here out for a spin , before her owner come and pick here up