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11-5-2016 1125CR TLC

12-6-2016 - 11-5-2016 1125CR TLC

very nice 1125CR in for big service and fix charging system

so first strip here a little, airbox off

and checking the stator to ground, still good

but AC stator out put is 1,5 volts over one pair.. mnnn

a other pair still makes 3,3 volts... should be about 20 Volts AC at idle i pretty much know for sure the stator is fried

so first the fairing off, start with the right upper cover

and swing the left + bottom piece off the bike

oil drain

and start the rotor , timing sensor out

stator plug the connector off

and take the cover screws off , there is 1 with a copper washer.. put this back the same place

mnnn crispy , good for allot off things , stator not so good

we do the oil jet upgrade right away, so the over heating problem is fixed , rotor off

remove the stator from the cover , the 3 screws and remove the wire protection plate

yep... crispy as fries

while we are here, replaced the oil filter to close up this side

new stator in... place alittle silicone in the rubber to help is seal

and use loctite on the stator screws.. we noticed some trouble in cases these screws came loose !!

cleaning the sprag clutch mounting ring and bolts so the new loctite will have clean surface

little assembly lube in the sprag one way bearing , for the difficult first moment with out oil pressure

oiljet poort on the double spline, made bigger to line up with the crank feed

and the busniss end off the oil jet, tiny hole enough to cool the stator by misting cooler engine oil over the stator, but not to large to loose oil pressure high rpm

sprag bearing ring on first, and line it up with the rotor holes

and tq the bolts and nit to tq .. redloctite , assembly lube on the balance gear and starter motor reduction gear shaft

with a new gasket and a little bead off silicone on the plug rubber to help seal, cover is mounted back

so on with the service, rear axle pinch bolt 10mm allen

and take the rear caliper off to remove the wheel

mnnn bearings are way to tight.. i will put new ones in , these will not last long like this

new bearings... and on request customer fat tyre :-)( 190 ) will look badass on this bike

time to rotate the engine, i turn the bike on the lift so i have more working space

front wheel out... bearing check.. ok these are done.. will replace these to

front forks out to service the oil and easy acces to the engine when rotated

loosening the wire loom so rotating the engine will not pull these wires apart , horn wires

on the 09-10 models unplug the rear O2 sensor plug , rotating the engine will pull the connector off .. better to unplug

side pods loose , and clutch master loose to give the clutch line some slack

and with the engine supported remove the middle engine bolts

loosen the rear engine bolts a little

and loosen the pich bolts on the engine mount sliders , and slide the sliders a little out so the can not catch anything

and take out the 2 front k-bracket bolt to the frame

a little light sticked to my front support to see in the dark

engine down and front cam cover removed, check the cams on pitting

the valve play is good for the next 20000 km

remove the spark plug

and fresh one in gapped and little neverseas on the threads

cover back on.. check the middle cover seal is still in position

stick coil back in , and connector injector and coil back on. confirm the coil connector locks if not sure lock the tab with a ziptie !! seen these come loose while putting in the intake airducts

rear same story.. good untill next service

and hooking up the connectors again

little something we now do with every big service, check ecm grounds for corrosion , as this one is impossible to reach when the engine is up.. and we see some times corrosion here can give fuel pressure errors , this one was clean

engine back up and start the left side engine bolts in

the k-bracket holes to the frame usualy not line up again , so loosen the side bolts and start the threads on the front bolts

every bolt in, start tightening the left side first , than the right side witht he silders

before you put the pods back on, route the wires and ziptie these to the k-bracket

front forks, with fresh oil and wheel with fresh bearings ready to go in

testing... yep the bike is charging again

the hd wire harness mod is still in... i think i leave this in this case as the S tail section needs a longer cable to the regulator

but i will lock the throttle plate shafts to getter