Articles & photos
Back |
26-10-2016 XB12SX custom making it run
10-11-2016 - What did we do Today 26-10-2016 Buell XB 12SX custom, making it run.
as we need to mount a new exhaust bracket will remove the belt tensioner bracket , is easier , for that the belt tension needs to come off, pinch bolt loose
and loosen the axle about 15 turns untill the wheel is on the small part off the axle
now the belt tension is off and the bracket be removed, nuts off ( these can be tight )
and idler bracket off
as i don't want to drain the oil , i remove the oil feed line holder to have some room
and i cut a slot in the exhaust bracket
new bolts and washers
put red loctite on these
slide the bracket in place and tighten the bolts , and mount the oil line holder back
front off the engine supported... and loose the front bolt
before i put this in i will lube it some
notice the gearbox breather hose has wear marks.. thing to look for after mounting the header back
mnnn front O2 sensor is mounted in the rear bung... the isolation and clip is to hold the wire in the front airscoop
will start with new nuts... these chewy ones will give problems the next time some one needs to work on the bike
headers tighened
and front o2 sensor back in, is best to remove this one , to have better acces to the front header nuts.... ( see the chewy nuts ;-) )
engine back on and front bolt back in, with some grease on
and tighten to 66NM
w-brace back on, and left footpeg bracket
small rightside scoop , stock on the 2010 euromodels , can come a little close to the header, i will grind this a little off
the front O2 sensor positioned so the wire will not burn on the header
and scoop on , you need to bent it a little in place
gear box breather , just to be sure a extra ziptie to hold the hose off the header
and scoops back on
clutch cable was mounted like this... waiting for trouble...the cable will melt like this
positioned the clutch cable a little more to the middle off the engine
so TQ hammer time , pre assemble the exhaust
ready to go on
the muffler body you can turn a little so have the end tip the way you like it
the rear straps we made 1 lenght , the correct lenght no fear in overtightening these ( what happens allot with the stock straps ) we made expansion bridges in our strap so they can take the expension off the metal when the muffler gets hot
fasten the front brackets after lining out the muffler
give the pipe some taps to free the tension in the slip on joint
and fasten the rearstraps
check the postion off the joints so the side stand will not knock on these
and the hanger bolts tightened
last one is the clamp
dent the straps so they follow the exhaust bracket closely
and idler puley bracket can be mounted back on
decall on... nice..still proud on these, after years messing around with crappy "will stay to getter for only 8000 km "exhaust , we made a quality exhaust that even makes the bike run very nice , adding low end TQ
ok where wer we , rear axle tightend
and set to 66NM
an tighten the pinch bolt
moving up , the cable guide back in palce
now what to do with the intake air temperature sensor.... it was now laying on the rear cylinder head
as the correction in the fuel system on these sensors is very hard, best to keep these cool , not my best sollution but this will work , air filter back on
now the fuel pomp connectors , cut off the crappy shit
pulled the wire ends out from the cooling fan , as the connector was hidden by the frame, and the wires where made longer , i get make it clean and have a good connector
new terminals on
and terminals in the connector
puzzel.. as no where in the wire scedule the pump wires are named... but i connect theme back they way they where
as the pump pressure was dropping low, i mounted our fuel pressure meter to see what is happening , for now the pump is not running ?
cooling fan test... check, the new one works
i noticed the 20 amps fuse for the fuel pump ? when the fuel pump is bad it can blow the 15 amps , and people put in a heavier one
but something is not right
ok.. pump red and black are the pump feeds , the green and brown are for the low level sensor
good resistance, on the fuel pomp it self, that is not the problem
hot wire the pump to the battery and the pump is indeed working
so mesuring the other end ( the bike end ) off the connector , ok feed from fuse
but the ecm switched gives also battery voltage... this will zero out and pump no workyworky
so what am i doing wrong here... ?? tracking the cables that are lenghtened, bought ecm fuel pomp feeds ( brown / yellow , pos 27-28 black ecm connector) are coupled , as they should but go to a grey wire
this douse not match the cable ends i cut off the soldered lengtening pieces... bugger... beginners mistake , trusting the workmanship done before you ... they made a wrong color wire lengtening .. i should have tested this before
repluged the connector ... now she is working perfect :-)
the purle wire extension is low level fuel sensor to the wireloom... but this is not connected on the motogadget..