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17-3-2016 Uly steeringhead bearing,

1-5-2016 - 17-3-2016 Uly steeringhead bearing, and some TLC, last heat cyle and test ride XB12SS top end overhaul

Uly brought in for Steering head bearings... as in it is almost hard to steer with this bike.., so back wards on the lift to remove the front end

you know something is not right when you need to hammer a T20 key in a 1/8 allen head , i will put some new bolts in and clean the threads

flyscreen off and removing the head light bracket

loosen all the connectors

and the throttle cable

and pull out the cables under the dash

now with a anti temper bit you can remove the steering lock

steering lock out, still one bolt in holding the dash on

last bolt loose from the dash cover, remove the brake line hose holder to remove it

and you can take it off as one unit

i'm not going to bother to remove the bottom head light screw , 8 out off 10 times this one is seased en you need to destoy a head light to remove it , i leave the bottom screw on , and remove the fender with the headlight as one m just as easy

loosening the clutch cable adjuster

and unhook the cable from the lever

remove the front wheel, bike weight supported

and take the front legs out

mnnn .. will discus this with the customer , some one needs a fresh front tyre

with everything removed, cables loose

i mark the handle bar position as i noticed this is a little more drawn back than stock.. so even when the handle clamp falls off i can position the bar back the same way

handle bar + brake caliper off as one unit

these bearings are so bad, with everything removed. i can hardly turn the triple T

stem nut, pinch bolt loose

and loosen the steering stem nut

leave the nut on a few threads as the top plate can be a pain to pull off, some little tap with a nylon hammer will free this easy

and yes you need to catch it wink-emoticon when the steering stem nut is loose and top plate off

long drift and punch out the old bearings, small tip use a heavy hammer works better with some mass behind it

postion the drift in the slots that are there for it in the frame

old bearings out.. just for picture i took out the seal , nice and crusty

new bearing.. i'm not impressed with the amount off grease from the factory, it is not a high speed bearing.. acutaly it moves very little , so no need to have space for greas heating up or anything like that

i repack the bearing full with grease, so if there is a little watter comming in, there is grease enough to protect the bearing

sometimes we need to make our own tools , steering head bearing puller

one side in , the center race long side need to be facing out

as douse it for the bottom one

steering stem cleaned and a coat off grease , ready to go in

stem nut on, and the steering head moves by finger motion from left to right

before you tighten the stem nut completely put the forks in and tighen the top clamps only

and not put some preload on the bearings , 55 Nm
you will notice when the preload is gone, when you hear your steering head clack , the first time you brake, you need to retighten this

with the steering stem nut tightened, tighten the lower fork clamps


clutch cable back throught the top plate and handle bar back on

and the dash back on

mnn can do with some cleaning off the contacts, as there is a little strange electrical gremlin, will clean al contacts

and procted theme with some silicone grease

system check.. the problem off the high beam is fixed, but the indicators don't work.. will first put the bike to getter

front wheel in temperory

head light bracket in place

and the head light back on

cleaning the flyscreen threads... 10/32 in aluminium on curved surface under tension, i see these threads go out very often ...

as i suspect a little switch problems i will take a look inside

mnnn looks like we have some stowaways

you can remove the cable holder plate and cut the little zip tie to have a closer look

more stowaways, or like my girlfriend would say... eeeeeewhhhh !!!! spiders .. wink-emoticon will clean it out

if your not good with little things and springs , leave this !! horn button + spring removed

and the indicator switchs out

you can take it apart, but again... if you drop anything and loose it, you need to buy a new unit , checking if the spring contacts are still good


will clean the slider contacts and put it back to getter, all looks a little dirty but no problems

assembly the switch again

indicator relais failed... strange things, as it did work before, not good but worked, removing it and replacing it was the drop to kill it completely i think, with a new relais everything works perfect again

so on with the small check up , heating up for the oil change

checking the battery poles while she is heating up

and draining the old oil

give a little grease to the side stand pivot

and replace the oil filter , new filter prime this and wet the o-ring before you put it on

belt check.. daily drivers... in winter time the belts can wear out quickly

wheel bearing check.. all good

checking the primairy tension.. also good to go ( check this at 3 positions on the chain )

check the shift lever mechnisme on loose bolts and rods

brake fluid change rear brake

and refresh the brake fluid front... tomorrow fresh front tyre and she is good to go

last heat cycle on the XB12SS overhaul... running better and better

putting some covers on for the first road test

very nice bike... test ride smile-emoticon slow and don;t go high refs yet... but she is running very nice

after a first ride, the oil finaly has a little change to get hot, so checking for sweating or leaks... all good .. a little sweat spots is normal after fresh mounting, oil and grease used during mounting..

and check and set the oil level, for a start reference for the customer, as the bike was using allot off oil... she will start a new live now, hope the customer like it