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23-6-2016, Uly frame puck replacement, Uly start u

9-8-2016 - 23-6-2016, Uly frame puck replacement, Uly start up over overhaul, 1125 trouble shooting, XB9R gearbox problem engine strip


best way to get scared pucks off is with a little heat

nylon tools to pry it loose

and peel off all the double sided tape, clean with a degreaser

and stick the new one in place

3e heat cycle on the top end overhaul.. she starts to run nicer already :-)

1125CR in for some trouble shooting the charging system

the bike shop already took the tail section and regulator off , note the HD wire harness mod !

off course first check.. stator to ground resistance .. ok good

put your voltmeter on AC ( alternating current ) to check the out put from the stator

on my meter i need to set the scale manualy for AC set it to 400 volts

pick any pair off stator leads

and start the engine.... this is idle 22 volts ... good

other pair about the same. stator is ok..

voltmeter to DC ( direct current ) to measure behind the regulator

mnnn battery clamp voltage with running engine... yep that is on the low side, if the cooling fans will kick in , and low rpm ( because the HD wire harness modification cuts out 1 fase below 5000 rpm ) the bike will hardly charge

ok just checking, unplug the modification wire harness

and direcly connect the regualtor to the stator

still low on the battery terminals , but already allot better

lets heat here up a bit so the cooling fans will kick in , dash says 14 volts

but on the battery still only 13.8

don't do this to long with a loose regulator, this needs the heat sink on the frame , as these can heat up quickly

wel lets try with a new mosfet regulator

:-) works

even with the cooling fans on... plenty off charge

mind you these things still get hot

xb9r engine strip down for gearbox problem.. the bike is missing one gear ? and we already fixed 1 leaking gasket due to bad mounting , where going to strip this engine completely and mount it back to getter good

rocker covers off

rocker boxes off

not much off a issue now... but track your washers

big bolts on the rocker box , loosen evenly do the rocker box comes up straight

these bolts double up as rocker arm positioning pins , if they are mounted to much off this can scarr the bolts and weaken theme

manifold off

packed for now , with 5 engines in progress ... we crate everything to keep it to getter

top mount / coil bracket off the cylinder heads

and loosen the head bolts

mark the cylinders

it is even writing on the instruction sheet that comes witht he gaskets... do not use o-rings on the dowls :-X `with these head gaskets ( or new model OEM ones )

the o-rings with these gaskets have no room , other than to be press in between the dowl and head

next primairy off

remove the pulling plate to get to the mainshaft / hub nut

and righty loosy for this nut ,

mnnn i think i spot the problem. countershaft retainer is missing, the shaft can move now inwards, as it is only hold on lightly pressed in the bearing

ok on we go, starter motor off

rear engine mount.. yes these bolts are hard to reach... and thank you for putting back the rounded head ones :-(

the other 3 i could remove , tapping the mount counter clock wise loosened the bolt a little, and i could remove it easy ( no locite )

pick up sensor connector off

and drill out the cover plate rivits

sensor is marked , for easy mounting back

big flat head to remove the screws

remove timing cup off the cam

and cam cover cam be removed

these can be hard to remove

nice slipped over pignon nut

and first look at the "special" bearing construction... i tought they had mounted a timken bearing old style, like the S&S upgrade for the big twins , that would be interesting.. this really no

the made a oil feed hole for a non standard bearings.. in a place where you want metal to support the cam bushings and the engine not to crack ( we see sometimes haircracks starting from the cambushing holes

check added to the list... this one is binned

mnnn really who broke the teeth off and put in back on

ok i drif off.. cased apart to check the gearbox

nice rounded bolt... added to the list

and i will mount back the washers intended for these bolts... a normal washer will not cut it

breaking the cases, can sometimes be a pain.. put some case bolts back in ( the long ones ) and tapping these will help break the seal

the guts off the engine, cases apart

tap the shifter fork slide pins out the case

the fork axles to the side and you can take out the shifter drum

gently pressing out the gearbox out the case, it looks good.. the 1 gear missing was due the fact the countershaft was loose

start up number 4... and put the top on for first road test

velocity stack on

and aribox mounted , i will leave the rest off the covers off for now to check for leaks

warming up the engine, the new cylinders and pistons are heatoing up fast, but the oil takes a while , so after a few test rides when the oil gets hot you need to check for leaking gaskets or seals , as you will not notice this during the first heat cycles ... test ride 

test ride done, al dry and well.. it will take some km before loosens up , but she is ready to go back to Germany