Articles & photos
23-1-2019: Buell 1125 CR service inspection
6-9-2019 - What did we do today 23-1-2019: Buell 1125 CR service inspection , valve lash and spark plugs, and go fast goodies
all the way from Germany.. in for big service inspection and some fast parts to be mounted — atTwin Motorcycles Buell Support forever.
running here warm to drain the oil, right side plug
oil filter out and left drain plug
while draining.. starting to strip the bike for the engine rotation
new washer and some hydro sealer loctite right side drain plug
left drain plug has a magnet in it with 20000 km done it should look like this.. mostly gear box shavings
new oil filter in
removing the exhaust front left side
right side front with a long allen key as other wise the exhaust is blocking it, bolt was loose
rear mounting loose, unscrew the foot pegs bolt and the exhaust comes down easier
heavy steel.. nice tips already welded on.. and sounds not really stock :-)
carefull with the exhaust gaskets
with a big inspection, not much extra work to check the oil pump pre filter , remove the bottom cover
nice.. only very little and tiny pieces to see
with a needle nose plier you can pull out the filter , clean it and put it back in.. it snaps in place
10 mm allen for the rear axle pinch bolt
loosening the rear caliper mounting bolts throught the disk
mnn .. belt is getting bad
will advice the customer to replace this one, not reliable anymore
i will put new rear pads in.. as these wear out very fast due the small size
taking in mind , belt replacement is needed , the rear wheel bearings need to be top shape .. i will replace these
and i can feel some play on the crush drive. i will fix this, makes the bike feel tighter :-) see here more details https://www.twinmotorcycles.nl/artikelen.asp?cid=6&aid=1224
take the pully of and tap the end plate out, the rubbers are not bad, they only have a little play,
i have some shims cut , this one will do wuth 1 on each notch.. put a drop thick grease on the shim to stick it on during mounting
drop red loctite on the bolt, check the o-ring under the bolt head !!
nice and tight.. feels to much better during riding
popping the old brake pads out
these are almost gone.. and heat cracks are already in
on the new pads the clip can use a little help, other wise mounting can be a crime
new pads on..
checking the rear brake.. pedal feels snappy.. so master cylinder is ok
engine oil back in
bike is a 2009 model.. but a 2010 engine is mounted ( no dip stick , only filler cap )
2010 model engines have a looking glas for the oil level.. works better than the normal oil level checing routine
bike swapped around on the lift.. note to self.. need to re tighen the steering head bearings. as the steering head knacks while braking
airbox cover of.. leave the filter in. when you pull of the base plate... as there is much dirt collected in the airbox base
air control valve.. not needed anymore, i will remove this
air control valve.. not needed anymore, i will remove this
make sure you connect the throttle cams when you do, can cause dangereus problems if you don't
engine supported. and removing the front end to make room
wheel bearings are ok
loosening the horn cables and intake air sensor
ing. cover plug out.. so we can turn the engine over
disconnect the rear O2 sensor , and pull the cable back at the front to give it some free play for rotating
front stand.. lights .. check she can go down
coil removed , and unscrew the cover bolts
cams look good and nice
exhaust are bought to tight.. need to take the finder spacer out
slide the fingers to 1 side and pick out the shim with a magnet
check the size
i took notes where the lash was.. and where i want it to be
and looking for the best shim in our tray off shims
turn the engine over 1 time, and check the lash again , to check what you did had effect
and change spark plug
the starter cable is a little in the way of the cover , needed to push it to the side
and mounted.. check the connector.. it locks
if you don't trust it , put a ziptie on the lock tab.. as these can be a pain, when the connector gets loose
moving to the rear.. first make some space
disconnect the battery
loosen the solinoid holder and fuse box
also needed to adjust the rear cylinder exhaust valves.. the finger spacer broke a tab .. wil mount a new one
cleaning the rear cover
cover screw are limited to tighten
cover back on.. check the gasket is still seated correct before you tighten it
ign cover plug back on
engine rotated up .. and put the front bracket bolt in.. by hand ( engine needs to align )
start tightening the engine bolts left side
and than move to the right side and tighten the pich bolts
pods can go back in place
ziptie the wires to the left bracket
and mounting the radiator pods
servicing the front legs with freh oil
legs back in, and retighten the steering head bearings.. loosen the pinch bolt, the lower triple t bolts are still loose
little markings for the handle bar position.. makes it easier to put theme back..
loosen and retighten the stem bolt 55-60 NM
and now tighen the lower clamp bolt
added some go fast thingies :-) our intake stacks
check the clips are in secure
the idle control valve hose , usualy gets pulled of
mounting it with zip tie will hold it to the pipe
front wheel in
and caliper on
we are going to mount a aftermarket exhaust.. so mount the oil cooler bracket, with bolt and nut
Torque Hammer 2 header mounted — at Twin Motorcycles Buell Support forever.
position of the bracket on the mufler , the strap need a little bend — at Twin Motorcycles Buell Support forever.
exhaust sliped on checking clearance to the swing arm — at Twin Motorcycles Buell Support forever.
db eater out :-) — at Twin Motorcycles Buell Support forever.
push down the front suspention a few times — atTwin Motorcycles Buell Support forever.
and tighten the front axle pinch bolts — at Twin Motorcycles Buell Support forever.
time to let the smoke out — at Twin Motorcycles Buell Support forever.
oil looking glas.. much easier to check the level — atTwin Motorcycles Buell Support forever.