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1-12-2016 Buell X1 gearbox service
13-12-2016 - 1-12-2016 Buell X1 gearbox service
always a debate... seal ring in or out
this one was hard anyway... with all the stuff loose , easy to replace it
if you have run marks on our spacer... with fine scotchbrite you can clean theme.
having a stamp for the seals works so much better, and for me seals the side where the pressure is the spring lip sould be
pre lube the seal and spacer in
on with the gearbox, c-clips out
block the counter shaft in a softjaw vise and loosen the retainter
and press the counter shaft out, take care off the splash ring to lube the bearings
main shaft dito.. has a loose spacer ring
bearings out the trapdoor
and new bearings pressed in
as we do this allot, the XB press tool ( 03-05 ) works also for the tube frame , easier to press i with the loose rings
shafts in... time to rebuild the gearbox
first the retainer back on with some loctite
use new clips as the old ones will bend usualy with removing theme
the work shop manual is not much off help here... best you remove and marked theme so you know where they go back on ... ;-)
checking new gears... counting theeth and check size , as one end off the shafts is loose you can put on a slighty bigger gear... only to notice during final mounting
rings and clips , bearings
checking the new shift forks
they are also marked so should be easy
lyning up the shift forks in the gearbox , push the drum trough and push the steel pins in the slots
3 hands are needed sometimes.. shift drum positioner
ready to go back in... prelube the shafts and bearings
little red loctite on the trapdoor bolts
and tighen these to 22 NM
detent plate back on... check it sits level , other wise you can tap the pins in to the same lenght
dry testing... smooth in al gears
shifter lever back in place.. i mount the spring hook facing in
3e gear and 3 mm pin to adjust the mechanisme , lightly rest the arm and tighen the nuts
we need to put back the clutch spring as we checked the clutch pack
press tool on.. and c-clip support ring on
the c-clip can go back normaly you can do this with your fingers
and pull plate off to mount the basket
lift the complete primairy on the bike with chain and all , wiggle the clutch on the main shaft
and turn the clutch basket a little untill the front sprocket slides on the splines
red loctite here !!
the clutch nut come with a conical ring.. follow the markings
also red loctite here and lefty tighty , turn the nut as far as it goos by hand so the ring will not dop off the nut
nuts tight and pulling plate back in
primairy cover back on, will replace the shift lever seal
nice thick primairy adjuster ( the one that douse not break )
4 long 7 shorter , i use blue loctite on these, the long ones left and right ( the hole with the dowl pin ) and the 2 top middle ones
spiraling out and setting to TQ 14 Nm
double check drain plug before i put oil in
oil in clutch mechnisme in , adjsuting the clutch cable
little gease on the shift lever to prevent corrosion
and the lower 2 bolt back in, i use a little red loctite on the long shift lever bolt
lyning up the shift lever
and checking the primairy chain tension... always check on 3 point
exhaust came in a box... nice and rattely
but fix well
will use some new springs on it
back to the overall check off the bike , rear wheel
bearings are ok and even the double bearing is still tight :-)
but the rear pads can do for a chance
best to do this with the bracket mounted
as it can be needed to use some force to remove the bolts
i clean and relube the front silder bolt
and put the dust seal back in properly agian
caliper back on.. and new pads in