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3-2-2018 Buell X1 part 2, Buell S1
25-4-2018 - 3-2-2018 Buell X1 part 2. Strip and cleaning the engine. Buell S1 flywheel, and painting
engine on the work bench.. bike parked .. time to split the cases and clean
with some elbow grease and a brass wirewheel the corroded bolts look shiny again
the 4 lower screws loosen in the case, and the allen bolts loose
pulling the main drive out the bearings
side play on this one for sure
light tapping to break the seal on the cases
and clean view on the flywheel this is a late model with pressed bigend pin
oil pressure sensor out
and oil filter adaptor out
oil pressure check bal and spring
and oil feed line from pump to filter off
oil line cleaned.. the npt nipple end is turning in the hose, need to check when running if this will not leak, other wise we need to replace this line
pinion bearing checking , these clips can be a crime to remove and even worst to mount again
anyway the race and bearing look very good
i put it back on for protection and transport ( crank will be transported in the case )
some cleaning furhter.. cam cover.. wil need more cleaning. but most grime is
pressing cranks out.. other very nice project.. restoring a S1WL , bike is completely apart.. frame and wheel coated. the customer asked us to take care of the engine.. as the years where not kind to the engine coating we going to clean the case and coat this, before we start the engine rebuild
the silver coating is bad
i put the crank bearing mounting tool with some spacers on the sprocket shaft so the heavy fly wheel will not drop out when the bearing is loose
flywheel caught .. too heavy to catch with one hand. better safe than drop a flywheel
the conical bearings are a set with spacer normaly made to size.. keep theme to getter
the conical bearings are a set with spacer normaly made to size.. keep theme to getter
the S1 crank is still a bolted big end. makes overhauling ea
the S1WL cases put to getter
and to the cleaners
to remove piston pins.. when you cannot push theme out by hand best to use a puller so you do not load up the bigend bearing
pin off the connecting rod. note the wear marks
2e compression ring is on several spots fully toughing.. very good indication the rings are worn out
while the piston still looks ok
crank has no big end bearing failure, but he rod feels very loose.. we are going to take it apart and make it better than ne
cleaning 1e session
starting to look clean
checking the valve to have complete picture what we need to do
valve keys out
and exhaust rear ou
intake looks like the seal have been leaking. and to much play
the valve spring lower seats stick on due to the oil film under theme
after removing the valve seals you can check the side play. you can also do diameter measurement, but just feeling the side play is a very clean indication .. these have little to much
exhaust ditto
bag and tag.
free power tip ... use flat exhaust gaskets.. or do not over tighen the conical ones..so the protude in the exhaust port
valve caps of
front head looks better.. less heat load, they stay nicer . is my theory
checking the oil pump on wear
just 2 screws
and take the plate of
upside down and turning the gear, the rotor sets will drop out
big one is return or scavenging , smal one is fees or pressure
impressive.. the pump stil looks very good
rotors are perfect
so little cleaning.. a wet finger of running in oil
and the return rotor back in
separator plate
and feed rotor set back in.. please note due to the very many changes to these pumps. it is not smart to try to buy loose rotors, ( if you still find theme ) HD and we advice to replace the complete pump when it is worn out
some oil in for the gears.. and this is ready for mounting
cleaning the 2e half
gearbox bearings out
and flywheel back in the case
some knocking around protection on the rod.. the alumium is soft.. now contact customer