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17-8-2016 Monster bigbore clutch, brake disk, XB9
8-9-2016 - Buell XB12 Monster bigbore clutch slip, Buell Xb9 new brake disk, Buell XB12X new Seal front fork
What happens if you make more than 130 Nm at 5000 rpm on the rear wheel with your stock clutch.... Well it takes 3 runs on the dyno full throttle before it starts to slip... we where under the impression that the clutch was already upgraded by the first company who build this conversion.. Ok we will upgrade the clutch now
oil out, and shifter off
primairy cover off
clutch tool to compress the spring
carefull with the seat ring , it bends very easy
with the pressure plate off, always good to check under the spring, as debris here can cause the clutch to bind
my collegue was working a xb where they resendly replaced the rear bearings... eeeh not good when you take it out by hand :-X
nice and blue, stock clutch is toast
take theme all oud for checking, inclusiding the half plate and convex spring
8 friction plate mesurement , yep below minimum recommendation
new pack in, a higher performance one , seat ring and convex ring in first and start with the half plate
and alternate the plate in
stronger clutch spring in.
and seat the c-clips
missing dowl.. i will put a new one in, makes mounting the gasket allot easier
learned the hard way... loctite on the cover screws ( during racing / high power they can come loose )
and tq the cover , starting in the middle and spiral out
new gearbox fluid, with barnett or alto performance clutch pack , use redline D4 atf, the normal gearbox oil will cause the clutch to bind / hard shifting when cold, as it has to much fluid friction
adjusting the clutch mechnsme is key for a good working clutch
shifter back on loctite these bolts
clutch cable in the lever
and adjsut the outer cable... test ride :-) tuning is only started and she feels very powerfull :-)
XB12X front brake jutter
as this is a 08 X model the axle pinch bolts are pointed to the rear
front lift , and making sharpy markings to check what is wrong
lightly aply the front brake and spin the wheel
you will notice a wear pattern on the shapy lines
here little on the out side
and here full on the inside , disk is warped dish shaped by heat
so wheel out and disk bolts loose
check the springs if there al free and moving
and check the hardware , these still look good, apply new loctite on the bolts
and tq the bolt to 35 Nm
change the pads to, no point in tranfering the pads wear pattern in the new disk
wheel back in, and axle to 55 Nm
caliper bolt to 50 Nm with loctite
push down the suspention a few time to set the front fork on the axle
and tighten the axle pinch bolts
yep. not sure if this was the still the first disk, i know the owner is carefull on his bike, given the looks off it and looking at the odo meter :-) but she now brakes good again
mailcall... a other crank in from Italy with a familiar problem big end bearing gone, off to the machine shop for a new big end pin and bearings
nice Xb9Sx... even nicer now with the headers coated black :-)
and the stock exhaust started a little to corrode, so this was also take care off and a fresh coat off ceramic coating
netral switch swapped and navigation hooked on, she is ready to go back
uly front seal
i notice the front seal was sweating a little, before i return the bike, best to replace it now, will leak very soon so wheel out , caliper off
nice DLC coating on the legs
so front fork out
and protecting the cap nuts with some isolation tape to keep theme nice
dust seal off and spring clip loose to tap out the oil seal
before you put on new seals, cover the sharp edges with some isolation tape to protect the new seals
even though my mounting slide tool douse not scratch , i like to slide hammer the seals in on a higher piece off the front leg where the seals douse not run
fork leg back in, and wheel back in, the way i like it , i can turn in the axle with a finger
caliper back on
and front fender back on ... looking nice
