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17-8-2016 Monster bigbore clutch, brake disk, XB9

8-9-2016 - Buell XB12 Monster bigbore clutch slip, Buell Xb9 new brake disk, Buell XB12X new Seal front fork

What happens if you make more than 130 Nm at 5000 rpm on the rear wheel with your stock clutch.... Well it takes 3 runs on the dyno full throttle before it starts to slip... we where under the impression that the clutch was already upgraded by the first company who build this conversion.. Ok we will upgrade the clutch now 

oil out, and shifter off 

primairy cover off

clutch tool to compress the spring 

carefull with the seat ring , it bends very easy 

with the pressure plate off, always good to check under the spring, as debris here can cause the clutch to bind 

my collegue was working a xb where they resendly replaced the rear bearings... eeeh not good when you take it out by hand :-X 

nice and blue, stock clutch is toast 

take theme all oud for checking, inclusiding the half plate and convex spring

8 friction plate mesurement , yep below minimum recommendation 

new pack in, a higher performance one , seat ring and convex ring in first and start with the half plate

and alternate the plate in

stronger clutch spring in. 

and seat the c-clips 

missing dowl.. i will put a new one in, makes mounting the gasket allot easier 

learned the hard way... loctite on the cover screws ( during racing / high power they can come loose ) 

and tq the cover , starting in the middle and spiral out

new gearbox fluid, with barnett or alto performance clutch pack , use redline D4 atf, the normal gearbox oil will cause the clutch to bind / hard shifting when cold, as it has to much fluid friction

adjusting the clutch mechnsme is key for a good working clutch

shifter back on loctite these bolts 

clutch cable in the lever 

and adjsut the outer cable... test ride :-) tuning is only started and she feels very powerfull :-) 

XB12X front brake jutter

as this is a 08 X model the axle pinch bolts are pointed to the rear 

front lift , and making sharpy markings to check what is wrong 

lightly aply the front brake and spin the wheel 

you will notice a wear pattern on the shapy lines 

here little on the out side 

and here full on the inside , disk is warped dish shaped by heat 

so wheel out and disk bolts loose 

check the springs if there al free and moving

and check the hardware , these still look good, apply new loctite on the bolts 

and tq the bolt to 35 Nm

change the pads to, no point in tranfering the pads wear pattern in the new disk 

wheel back in, and axle to 55 Nm

caliper bolt to 50 Nm with loctite

push down the suspention a few time to set the front fork on the axle 

and tighten the axle pinch bolts 

yep. not sure if this was the still the first disk, i know the owner is carefull on his bike, given the looks off it and looking at the odo meter :-) but she now brakes good again

mailcall... a other crank in from Italy with a familiar problem big end bearing gone, off to the machine shop for a new big end pin and bearings

nice Xb9Sx... even nicer now with the headers coated black :-)

and the stock exhaust started a little to corrode, so this was also take care off and a fresh coat off ceramic coating 

netral switch swapped and navigation hooked on, she is ready to go back 

uly front seal 

i notice the front seal was sweating a little, before i return the bike, best to replace it now, will leak very soon so wheel out , caliper off 

nice DLC coating on the legs 

so front fork out 

and protecting the cap nuts with some isolation tape to keep theme nice 

dust seal off and spring clip loose to tap out the oil seal 

before you put on new seals, cover the sharp edges with some isolation tape to protect the new seals 

even though my mounting slide tool douse not scratch , i like to slide hammer the seals in on a higher piece off the front leg where the seals douse not run 

fork leg back in, and wheel back in, the way i like it , i can turn in the axle with a finger 

caliper back on 

and front fender back on ... looking nice