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25-3-2016 Uly time.. big service and fuel pump

1-5-2016 - 25-3-2016 Uly time.. big service and fuel pump low level sensor

Uly time smile-emoticon in for big check up and low level fuel sensor and to mount heated grips

drain while hot

while the oil is draining, i remove pretty much all the covers for spark plugs

and right side covers for belt check ect,

as we know what we need to do, and need to support the rear off the bike ( swing arm loose ) , i remove the exhaust in this case

mnnn will turn this bracket around clutch cable runs strange now rubbing the front forks to much

better... new model bracket would be even better , but as this one survived already for 10 years... i leave it on

clutch mechanisme out to fill the fresh oil

checking the shifter bolts of they are still tight

and checking the primairy chain tension.. a little loose on this one

as we need acces to the fuel pump , i remove the left foot peg bracket

change the oil filter

rear wheel out , a little seasing on the axle , will clean this up

belt is still good to go

but the bearings are shot , i will replace theme

checking the play on the swingarm, grab the end off the swing arm

and with your other hand feel on the pivot , this way you can feel the freeplay on the bearings, this case still ok

so fresh oil in

and replace the front spark plug from below

now we need to get to the rear sparkplug and fuel line , removing the cover

little wet from oil in the base plate ... in 16000 km not really a issue yet

rear plug out , and fresh one in

as i need to drain the fuel tank.. clean way to do this is run the fuel pomp

hose connector we made, now you can prime the pomp with the kill switch

or use a diagnostics program to test the fuel pomp , this will leave it running for a longer time than only priming it

fuel tank empty, reconnect the fuel line and ziptie the tps sensor wire back to the fuel rail , so the tps wires will not vibrate to much

connector fuel pump loose

and take the fuel line connection on the pump loose , and take the drain plug out, it will spill only a little fuel

loosen the 4 screws holding the pump

there is a middle hole 1/4-20 ( same as the fuel pump screws ) with a big washer you can use this a wiggle / pulling point

to make room to remove the fuel pump , loosen the rear shock bolt , with the engine weight off the bike

and wiggle the fuel pump out

in it full glory

look for rubbing wires !! as this can become a issue , they rubb on the aluminium brace holding the pump and filter

new low lever fuel sensor on

and some protective sleeve over the wires

use new o-rings... the old ones are swolen, very hard to mount it back again

a little mounting lube on the o-rings to prevent these from dammage during mounting

and slide the fuel pump back in , make sure the pre filter is in the hole

evenly tighten the 4 mounting bolts to push the pump back in

connect the fuel pump connector and check.. there is about a 20 secondes delay before the low level light will turn on , check works

and with a few liters off fuel back in the low level light is off .. ok good to go

air filter back on... nice and clean.. relube the K&N airfilter

rear wheel bearings we press theme out, blind bearing puller mounted and press from the other side

press in the brake disk bearing first !!! and use a little lube, the wheel can handle only so much bearings changes before the hole gets to big.. so make every one count.. and press with care

use pressing dies that support the inner and outer race , not to preload the bearing

brake side bearing in, leave the die in , and turn the wheel around the die supported

check if the spacer still has enough lenght , it needs stick out over the bearing seat in the wheel

and other side bearing pressed in , with a 2e die inner and outer race supported , this way when the bearing toughes the spacer it will not give a preload on the bearing , as this shortens the life muvh

rear wheel back in.. can be a pain with a spring loaded belt tensioner, better put this on one later , when the axle is in the wheel

and set the tq on the rear axle , and tighten the pinch bolt

rear brake caliper temporary mounted , so you can use some force loosening the pad lock cap and pin

and remove the front slider bolt , as the pads did wear very uneven , this happens when the slinding bolt is very sticky

old sticky grease and dirt prevent this slider to move with relative easy,

clean up teh pin and the hole , do some fresh grease int eh hole and push in the pin a few times to spread out the grease off over in the hole

protective booth back in the slot

new pds on , and pin turned in by hand

caliper and pads back in place and tighten the 2 bolts.. carefull to aline the front one , as the round starting thread can cause cross threading

time for the front end.. turned aroung on the lift and front in the air

wheel bearings are still good

front legs out... clean up the bottom ends as you need to slide in the forks completely , so you will not ruwn the seals

little protection for the fragile aluminium top cap

mnnn a little to much oil

result off the odd running clutch cable, rubbed down to the bare metal. this works like a file on bare aluminium , i will make a protective sleeve over this so the forks will not damage further

front end back in, tighten the front axle , push the forks in a few times to set the forks on the axle and tighten the pinch bolts

tq hammer back on, uly riders don't mind rain

spoiler bracket back on

and give the header a few light taps to release the tension from mounting before you tighten the front clamp

heated grips... we need to be behind the fly screen so remove it —

old right side switch off to be replaced by one with switch for the heated grips

new right hand switch with a few extra cables and connectors for the heated grips

lift the handle bar and the dahs a little to feed throught he connectors

the later models have a feed connection , on uly it is used , disconnect this

and hook up the spice for the feed and connect the wires from the heated grips it self

left grip is glued on the bar, with a flat screw driver you can break the glue and take it off


yep they work.. this is not final heat.. position 2 is very hot even with thick gloves

routing the grip wire, give it room to move the full throttle movement

warming up for oil level check.. and she is good to go