Articles & photos

Back

21-6-2018 Buell X1, XB9SX, 1125, XB12X

5-2-2019 - 21-6-2018 finish very nice Buell X1, fork seal Buell XB9SX, Buell 1125 sparkplugs and oil change, Buell XB12X cylinder

X1 brake caliper back on loctite and 50 Nm 

and tighten the disk bolts again 

front fender on.. lower screws are metric .. light grade loctite aplied 

tank cover on

and carbon inserts mounted

little cloudy.. change brake fluid 

looks better 

rear the same.. old stuff 

when bleeding pump the lever so the piston has full travel 

mnn crapy hose clamps.. should have replaced it when i saw it 

pinch clamp on to hose size .. works better.. test ride left to do

long way from home..

xb9sx.. 

with leaking oil seal 

front engine mount is broken.. and the bike vibrates allot , advised the customer to replace it very soon

front wheel bearings are bad.. why people do not look at this is sometimes for me hard to understand.. the tyres are brand new 

anyway.. protect the fork caps 

and take the fork apart 

fork splitted

cleaned and some isolation tape for mounting ( sharp edges )

seals back in with the slide hammer 

fill oil and bleed the rebound damper , adn set oil level 

fork back in 

new bearings in 

set to tq , and she is good to go 

1125 in for sparkplug change and oil change 

airbox off 

to get to the rear ( the easy one ) 

old plug.. looks ok 

check the gaps on these to before you put theme in , the gaps are not always correct 

moving to the front. .pod covers of 

wheel out

and left cover loose 

exhaust removed

rear O2 sensor connector of ( you pull the wire out rotating the engine )

airguide out 

stick coil 

i hear so many times.. we can do with out rotating the engine.. so i try it .. i already do not like the way you need to force the coil out.. this will be a pain to put back in

with sime wobble and short extention indeed you can replace teh spark plug , but to much force is needed to fight back the stick coil.. i would not advice it .. so rotating the engine anyway 

front support in 

and 4 bolt further the engine is down enough to mount the coil 

loosen the front bracket to start the top bolts (saves the threads ) 

tighten the engine bolts 50 Nm start at the left side ( side with out the spacers ) 

airguide back in 

and wire harnes pulled to the bracket 

exhaust on

not first test ride and heat up the oil 

hot oil.. drain right side 

and left side drain plug 

oil filter cover out 

drain plug in with some sealant 

and 300V in this bike 

setting to level 

the rear brake is binding , so need to take apart the master cylinder

remove the pushrod adaptor side 

the problem.. the last end of the piston corrodes and make the piston binds

normaly a little tap trough the banjo hole

and the piston comes loose , clean it an dput assembly lube in 

piston back in.. liberal amount off grease will go behind the rubber booth