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1-2-2017 Sportster stuff XB shift problem
10-2-2017 - 1-2-2017 Sportster grips, levers and throttle cables, Buell XB shift problem, Uly coating parts
on the nightster the throttle cables are nackered, making everything else nice... i will replace these to

T27 for the handle bar cap

and T25 for the switch screws

the cable adjusters turn these in to make some room to get the cables out

you need some free play to remove the barrels that hold the cables

with the small airfilter , i could just get to the cam to loosen the other end off the cables

new cables in the switch housing, and new grips on , fiddling back the cables on the grip

changing the lever is as easy as removing the c-clip in the pin

looks better like this

no shifty Xb... notiched right away the lever is sticking... if it douse not return fully , it will not shift properly

the pivot bushing douse not move and looks like it is really tight

knocked the pivot out,

little cleaning and reaming the bushing a little

more clearance to the case, so when i thighten the bolt the lever will not get stuck

drop off red loctite and the bolt , and the shift lever feels springy again ... will test drive the bike first, as shifting feels normal now
:-)

horn douse not work... checking fuse.. is good ok

so horn broken ? trying the horn button, i don't have any juice on the wire ... switch problem or broken wire

switch is easy check... power at one end... but switch is bad

you can take the contacts out the switch.. carefull not to loose the spring

the contact has been sparking already

a little sanding on the contacts and back in

testing... button works / and horn makes noise

no these will not go back

some new screws in .. works better

the Uly we striped recently for coating off the wheels, tail and front end

big box off nicely coated parts
:-) almost like xmas

will start with the grips on the tail piece, the push button goose in first

than the push rod

than the nylon bearings and spring in the left side

passenger grips and tray on the tail section

tail light back on.. useing the rubber grommets

and the rear fender on.. i will leave the cover off to hook up the indicators and licence plate light

seat rails... need to clean the ground points to bare metal

like so , the seat rails are used to make ground from battery to the engine, so this needs to be clean and good

one rail on, and under tray half in

other rail on and tail piece on

battery tray in

rear brake fluid reservoir on

electrics hooked on to the bank angle sensor and power point , and mount the seat lock bracket

battert and ecm in

moving to the rear wheel , the temp wheel out

valve back in the fresh coated wheel

the blasted surface , as this is a all weather bike, this will corrode very fast and will need to hammer off the rear pully and disk .. i put some never seas on and whipe the most off, but there will be enough left to protect the aluminium

new pully... as the old one was worn

bearings on and balancing the new combination

wheel back in.. because i do not want to damage the wheels i removed the inner pully cover

axle back to tension, and pinch bolt tight

front end .... brake line bracket mounted to the right piece

silded the left piece in, and loosly put all the screws in for the ignition switch , as we need to aline the top piece first before we tighten everything

cleaning the treads... these are so easy damaged...
:-( 10-32 size

and top piece on

indicators back on... the breather hole needs to point down , so this is right front

to mount the speedo a little tighter , you can put a washer on the speedo studs before you put the rubbers on

headlight bracket back on, and final tightening off all the bolts

testing the electrics .. head light and horn did not work... mnnn i think ground problem front on the steering head

yep... wire is broken next to the connector , common problem

new connection made

and she is working

flyscreen and whid screen on

checked the electrics... to rear fender cover plate can also be mounted

front wheel... the temp spare wheel out

and starting to assemble the front wheel

give the disk spring a light coat off never seas , so they will not corrode stuck

disk back on... bolt to 35 NM and a drop off blue loctide

new bearings on, and wheel ready to go back in

axle tightened and forks set ( pushing the bike in the springs a few times, pinch bolts tight.. notice the fork outer is sticking out off the axle

so when you put front protectors on, do not tighten these hard... you will push the front fork in and will become sticky

uly sign sticked back on the rails

and cleaned some corrosion off the right foot peg plate and gave it a tough up spray painte

she is nice again... i will wash here to morrow and take here out for a spin , before her owner come and pick here up


