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How to replace Stator Buell XB

13-12-2014 - a little guide how to replace the Stator on your Buell XB

a little guide how to replace the Stator on your Buell XB,

please note shown is the procedure done for 2003-2007 XB9 or Xb12 model range the same

While the procedure is almost similar for the 2008- models

for the 2008 - up the model off the rotor is different ,  Crank bolt different and position off the connectors


Tools specific needed ,  in addition to normal hand tools

High socket size 1 1/8”  ( crank nut )  all – 2007 models

Socket size 13/16” ( crank bolt ) all 2008 – models

High socket size 1 3/16”  ( clutch basket nut ) 

Primary drive blocker /  impact wrench

Torque wrench

C-clip spanners

Lock tite

parts needed

Stator , in this case the 2003-2007 model stator

Primary cover gasket

clutch cover gasket

inspection cover gasket

Gearbox oil , we prefer to use Formula plus



Stator ? where is it?  what douse it do ?

The stator is positioned on all buell models on the left side off the engine , in the primary case.

And supplies alternating volts ( AC )  to the voltage regulator, which convert the AC to DC ( direct current )  and limited the DC volts put out to roughly 15 volts , to charge the battery and supply the bike with electrical power    

The connector from the stator to the regulator is positioned behind the pulley cover ( 03-07 models )

The connector is the rectangular 4 position plug with 3 wires

On the 2008 – up models this connector is behind the left airscoop and is the oval plug with 2 wires


the patient

Now in this case, the bike did not charge,  and we measured the resistance from any stator lead to ground, as is was grounded on 2 off the 3 lead , very clear indication the stator is burned

removed the pulley cover, to have acces to the connectors

So unplugged the connector ,  and with a needle noose pliers take the terminal wedge out

With a little flat blade screw driver you can release the locks holding the terminals in the plug, and pull the terminals out

Moving on to the other side, drain the gearbox oil,  and if the stator is burned good, you will start to smell this , best to use a long oil tray

Remove the clutch cover and mechanism

Remove the shifter lever

loosen the primary chain tensioner

Remove the cover screw all around and take the cover off, at this time the oil tray as long as the primary cover is very usefull ;-)

Check if you did not pull out the locating dowels front and rear, and dropped them in the oil tray

Now to get to the Stator you need to remove the engine sprocket, but the clutch basket needs to come off to , so remove the c-clip holding the clutch puller plate in to uncover the nut

And remove the sprocket shaft nut ( normal right hand )   and the clutch basket nut ( LEFT hand threads )

For the 2008 up models a heat gun to break the loctite , can be useful as these bolts can be very hard to remove

and pull bought engine sprocket and clutch basket off , the magnets on the engine sprocket rotor will need some force

Unscrew the 4 torx head screws holding the stator,

Remove the 2 screw and protective plate

And use a flat screw driver to lever out the plug and pull the wire through

New stator, link to this model in our webshop


I really advice to remove the plastic bridge , as I have seen the holding rivet being knocked out to many times, by the rotor bolts and destroying the new stator with it,

After cleaning up the case, use some silicone to lay down a bead to bed the wires, and a little around the plug to seal better in the hole

Stator crews back  ( loctite and 10-12 NM ) on and protective plate back on

take the engine sprocket chain and clutch basket and slide it back on , line up the splines, nut back on ( red loctite and 350 NM ) back on

Clutch nut back on… the washer needs to face out ( as the marking tells ) ( !!! Left hand thread !!! , red loctite and 100 NM   )

Clutch pulling plate back in

And new gasket, as i would hate my self to do it 2x because the gasket is leaking

Push the cover back on, lifting the chain from behind to get it on the tensioner shoe

Loctite the cover screws, as i have seen these come out

And tighten the cover starting in the middle and circling out 14NM

Gearbox oil back to level, please use fresh oil if the stator was burned

Clutch mechanism back in , lightly bottoming and ¼ turn back

Shifter mechanism back on , loctite the screws !!!

Adjust the primary chain tension,

And adjust the outer clutch cable adjuster to 2 / 3 mm free play on the lever

wire up the stator plug again, look at the regulator end to check the correct positions in the 4 pin plug

start the engine and test for charging, as it is really common a burned stator is not the only problem ,

the bike still douse not charge properly, now in this case the regulator plug to battery ( no. 77 connector )   was also fried

!! Disconnect the battery before you repair the plug  !!

Buell has a repair connector kit  to repair and make a good connection again ( comes standard with new regulators )

New plug installed , little tip mark the wires  from the regulator, as there bought black

connect the battery back, and start the engine, and the bike charges again