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15-3-2019 Buell S3 brake line 1125 engine removal

9-1-2020 - What did we do today 15-3-2019 Buell S3 rear brake line and overhaul, Buell 1125 engine take out.. inspect head problems.

corrosion on the brake line — at Twin Motorcycles Buell Support forever.

to remove the master cylinder — at Twin Motorcycles Buell Support forever.

the stock brake line on these can be a real pain.. this S3 is easy — at Twin Motorcycles Buell Support forever.

the oil tank mounting point also works as bracket holding — at Twin Motorcycles Buell Support forever.

inside the banjo.. debris — at Twin Motorcycles Buell Support forever.

compensating hole barely open — at Twin Motorcycles Buell Support forever.

i will take this out — at Twin Motorcycles Buell Support forever.

prepping the new piston — at Twin Motorcycles Buell Support forever.

openened op the compensating hole, and cleaned — at Twin Motorcycles Buell Support forever.

as we use a normal brake line a hydraulic switch needed to be added — at Twin Motorcycles Buell Support forever.

bleeding with dot 5 .. and nice working / pressure — at Twin Motorcycles Buell Support forever.

the indicator relais was playing up .. best acces to remove the tail section

mnn yeah.. ok

broken and cracked , new one mounted

and tail section back on... test ride :-)

next engine take out.. this CR the rear intake valves fingers are broken, and the valves bend , but to hard to get to with the engine in

side stand out

shifter pedal loose

belt pully / peg mount of

neutral switch wire loose

draining crew out for the coulant

take a good aim.. before you open the radiator cap

frotn of the bike supported

radiators out the way

now first the top side ..

fuel line out

and removing the throttle bodies

simply pop theme off

throttle cables loose

the idle air valve and tps sensor connector loose this is the head temp sensor

taking of the plastic intake runners

loosent he vacuum hoses

put a rag in the good cylinder .. so nothing can fall in

pul the clutch master , to stop the reservoir from draining

harnes clip of

and remove the clutch line

greasy.. due to leaking fork seal

rear supported , so lowering the engine

engine mount bolts out

main cable harness connector loose ( engine wire harness )

and swing arm pivot loose

need to pull out the rear O2 sensor wire !

for that this screw needs undoing to take the clip out

so you can pull the wire out the protective sleeve

fuel pum cover removed

mnn.. ok speed sensor is fucked .. should not turn like this

engine loose

and out

removing the engine wire harness

nice guide

a look at the damage valve train

locking the cam , to loosen the cam gear bolts

chain tensioner loose

cam gear loose.. the cams can come off

the missing valve fingers..

one still in there broken of

valve spring retainer was of

draining a litle oil from the head bolt holes

the long screws in the chain chanel

coolant hose to the head loose

and pulling it of

oil line loose from the head

and loosen the head bolts, special socket recommanded

breaker bar to loosen with control

and the head pulled of , intake valve has been kissed

small markings on the piston.. expected wors

take the other intake valve spring retainer of

it don't want to come out.. the valve stem have some nicks , from flying bits and pieces

best to file the burs of , other wise you destroy the guide right way ..

one valve little bend

and one with bigger bend

looks even is is side stepped

yep that one is also bend .. looking at the light shining through

head of.. the breaking of the valve dit put some stress on the the cam drive.. the "pulling "side guide is broken

and i can not get the push / loose chain guide out

pulling of the cylinder.. looks ok.. some markings but not special

piston rings are not binded due to the valve bang .. valve hitting the piston so ok

other chain guide.. looks worn.. need to inspect more and take ignition cover of

need to do that anyway .. as the surplus oil out teh head is drainging in the igniton cover side off the case

speed sensor defenaly broken

rebuilding the M2

after a heat seazing


crank and rods are perfect

ziptie added to prevent the rods from banging around

rags added. to clean the base gasket airia